Post Font my elbows had been feeling much better though I didn't seem to be able to get back into the swing of indoor climbing. With 2weeks to the comp my first few sessions back on plastic felt hard... really physically hard. Every movement felt burly and more holds than I realised were pinches (something I had not missed at all in the sandstone world). Not doing any specific training I was merely trying to get the hang of climbing indoors again. Big feet, big moves. With one or two moderately good sessions under my belt with a some days setting and testing under my belt too it was off to Hebden Bridge on the train to jump in the car with the Murphys (thanks a lot for the lifts guys, life savers!! Pretty funny car ride too). After getting them lost a few times trying to find my hotel I hopped out the car to find another familiar, cheeky face in the form of Orrin Coley greeting me. The Premier Inn dinner was delightfully tacky and overpriced as always and with that, we head to bed, pausing only to laugh at how long a film about Snakes on a Plane could go on for so long.
A short car ride from the hotel saw us arrive at the doors of TCA Glasgow where this event has been held the past couple of years. After scouting out which problems were mine and which were easy or hard I preceded to the circuit board area to warm up. 30 minutes later the comp was underway, a couple of blocs seemed to be causing some problems but after a bit of beta sharing I fumbled my way to 7tops in 7attempts with 7 bonuses in just as many. The 8th bloc required some tricky beta mainly revolving around a big greasy volume. After trying 3 times all I could muster was a slap on the bonus hold, not even close to holding it. Hats off to William Bosi, the only one to top this problem (daamn he strong!). Seven in seven saw me comfortably into the finals in joint first with Max Ayrton and Orrin.
(Photo of a qualifying problem by Sandy Carr)
After a quick lunch we were hustled into isolation in preparation for the finals. Due to qualifying in joint first having the lowest competitor number out of the three of us in this position I was set to come out of isolation last. For me this was not ideal, I would much rather be out first than last. I get restless in isolation knowing that everyone else has attempted our climbs and this just builds to the intrinsic pressure I put on myself, though you do get a good idea of how everyone else has done and how difficult the bloc is.
The first problem followed some poor holds to a big protruding ball which doubled as the bonus hold. What came next was a series of more poor crimps, a positive rail and a slot for the finish. Balancing my way to the bonus I made a mistake on the next hold, not leaving room for a match, though with a bomber heel I was quick to shuffle the hands along and pull steadily up to what can only be described as small, slopey horribleness. Squeezing as hard as I could I pulled through to the positive rail and found myself eying up the finishing hold with a swift movement I had one hand in. I looked down to where to put my feet next to be in balance for the match, there was nothing, hmm.. damn. Not but two days before I had had this same problem down at the local wall and had dropped the top trying to campus the match. After assessing all my other options I figured this was the only one with a big pull up I prayed that I would stick the hold. My hand hit the top of the slot then seemed to worm its way onto a holdable part with my arms at full stretch. One flash, I couldn't have wished for a better start.
After another 20 or so minutes and a bit of running and dancing later in isolation, it was onto problem 2. This consisted of a mantle followed by a greasy volume and a very small but technical jump to the bonus. After this it looked like some basic crimpy moves to a finishing jugs. I had what seemed like 100's of goes on this problem. No matter how hard I tried, the small jump to the bonus felt nearly impossible for me. Every time I tried, my feet swung round in crazy style fashion and just at the last minute when I thought I had stuck the hold, my right hand would eject and I would be sprawled across the matting, arms and legs everywhere! No tops for me on this one.
(Problem 2 - photo by Sandy Carr)
When viewing problem 3 myself and fellow competitors had a dilemma. We originally read the problem and confessed it looked hard but where was the bonus. After some more inspection we found the bonus hiding on a volume but with it we found many more holds that took a different line. This looked very hard but was clearly the intended line to take. When coming out for the final bloc I decided to stick with the original beta and pull on the foothold that had been mistaken for a hand hold earlier. This method required an awkwardly high heel that put me out of balance, using the underside of a volume I snatched a positive crimp. Leaning away from the finish I secured a hold on the bonus and turned my focus to the next few moves. Making one more move my right hand pinged of the crimp with considerable speed. I was back on the deck but it did not matter, I knew I could get there again and I knew I could make the top. Having a minutes rest I did not change my beta in the slightest. I guppied the corner of the volume I had fallen off before and slapped over the top for a big sloper. With one more steady move I was at the top. 2tops in 3 attempts. I knew I was close. But was it good enough? Being back on the ground I conferred with my fellow competitors who confirmed it. I had won! Brilliant, my first national win. I couldn't and still can't quite believe it.
(Junior Podium - photo by Sandy Carr)
The following day I was invited to join in the GB junior team training. Here I learned how to move, eat and stretch well to climb better. All aspects were very interesting and positive for me to see where I need to go from here. The weekend was topped off with me being asked to join the Junior team and being selected for the European Cups and Championships this year. This, was a weekend to remember.
I'd like to say thank you to Mountaineering council of Scotland for putting on a great comp, Alan Cassidy and Gaz for the setting and use of the wall, Tom, Lu, Tim and Nath for all the work the put in all the time behind the scenes and at the comps and training and also my sponsors; Red Goat Climbing wall and Beyond hope for all the support they give me. Cheers guys.
